Culinary road trip through the west of North Brabant
Contemporary, local and deeply rooted in the landscape: that is the new Brabant gastronomy. There is no better way to experience it than on a road trip through the west of North Brabant, the region where nuns make wine behind monastery walls and organic farmers harvest asparagus, the prized ‘white gold’. It is where cheese is matured in abbey cellars and the last weir fishermen still catch anchovies using traditional methods. A three-day road trip takes you through the countryside to The Holy Triangle in Oosterhout and on to the Brabantse Wal (or Brabant Ridge) near Bergen op Zoom.
Day 1. The Holy Triangle and Etten-Leur - Visiting the nuns of Saint Catharinadal
The trip starts at one of North Brabant’s most beautiful spots: the area known as The Holy Triangle in Oosterhout, close to Breda and the Belgian border. Peace and contemplation are still commonplace here. Amid the trees and monasteries, you walk through the gates of Saint Catharinadal, where nuns have been making wine with grapes grown on their own land for years.
During a guided tour, you explore the vineyard and the vegetable, herb and bee gardens. With a bit of luck, you will see the nuns hard at work in the gardens, demonstrating their love and care for everything that grows here. And you can taste it! Enjoy a glass of wine after the tour or, even better, with an extensive lunch at the adjacent Wijnhuis De Blauwe Camer. Here, you lunch in style, with views of the vineyard. The dishes are made with ingredients from the monastery gardens and are always seasonal.
Cheese with character
After lunch, leave your car at the monastery and take a leisurely walk to Zuivelboerderij De Driehoek. Here, cheesemaker Maarten works from the principle that the flavour of the cheese reflects what the cows eat. The grazers have plenty of space, which results in deliciously creamy ‘grass cheese’ during the grazing season. The Benedictus red-rind cheese, matured using authentic methods in the cellars of Saint Paul’s Abbey, is just as tasty. Feel free to ask for more information in the shop; the staff will be happy to tell you all about it.
Between asparagus and grapevines in Etten-Leur
Between asparagus and grapevines in Etten-Leur
It is time to leave The Holy Triangle. Take the back roads through the Brabant countryside, heading west. Within 30 minutes, you will arrive at The Santspuy Wine and Asparagus Farm. From April to June, you can join a guided tour on Wednesday, Friday and Saturday afternoons. Between the rows of vines and asparagus beds, owners Gilbert and Loes will be happy to tell you about the origins of the farm, their focus on choosing quality, working with nature and enjoying everything the land produces. A bowl of asparagus soup paired with the farm’s own wine makes for a delightful stop along the way.
From here, it is only a short drive towards Oudenbosch. You can see the famous basilica’s dome looming in the distance. Antonius Hoeve is just outside the village. It is a wonderful starting point for exploring this part of North Brabant. This B&B and its luxury chalets are situated amid lush natural greenery. If you want to end your day with an exceptional dinner, Restaurant Carpe Diem in the nearby Oud Gastel prepares dishes with seasonal and local ingredients. Here, you can discover how refined and contemporary Brabant’s gastronomy can be.
‘Choose the surprise menu for the chef’s best dishes.’
Day 2. The Brabantse Wal
A weekend away the Brabant way includes the luxury of a relaxed start to the day. Enjoy an extensive breakfast, delivered with care to the door of your chalet. Today, you continue your trip to the Brabantse Wal, bordering Zeeland. But don’t leave Oudenbosch without visiting the basilica first. This prominent Brabant monument is a scaled-down copy of Saint Peter’s in Rome. Once inside, you can climb the steps all the way to the dome!
'The Nine Marvels of Oudenbosch walking tour starts from the basilica. This 2.5-kilometre route takes you to exceptional locations, such as the hidden square of Saint Louis and Botanical Garden Arboretum.'
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Oudenbosch Basilica
Oudenbosch Basilica
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Botanical garden Oudenbosch Arboretum
Botanical garden Oudenbosch Arboretum
Lunch on Landgoed Lievensberg
From Oudenbosch, it is a 30-minute drive to Bergen op Zoom, one of the oldest cities in the Netherlands. Save the historical centre for tomorrow and, today, stop off at Landgoed Lievensberg. This impressive country estate has shifting sands, pine trees and carefully landscaped gardens. The charming villa has been transformed into B&B Villa Heidetuin, with a restaurant where you can enjoy a delicious lunch, drinks and dinner. Take a seat on the veranda or inside in the drawing room and be amazed by regional Brabant produce with a hint of French charm.
‘Franken Fruit is opposite Villa Heidetuin, where fruit and vegetables have been grown with passion for the past five generations. Between the fruit trees and stalls with local produce, you can also pick fruit straight from the land. It couldn’t taste any better!'
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B&B Villa Heidetuin
B&B Villa Heidetuin
Wander in the Brabantse Wal
You are now in the area known as the Brabantse Wal. This absolutely unique part of the Netherlands forms a transition between sea clay and sandy soil, open polders and wooded hills. The fertile soil and salty air produce some of the province’s finest flavours. The remarkable diversity and variations in elevation in the landscape make it an exceptionally attractive area to explore. So, take your time this afternoon to discover the Brabantse Wal. Various walking and cycling routes start from Landgoed Lievensberg, one of North Brabant’s official Nature Gates.
The charming gardens in Park Heidetuin also invite you to enjoy a lovely walk. Or get in your car and visit Fort de Roovere in Halsteren, part of the Zuiderwaterlinie (Southern Water Line). Here, crossing the famous sunken Moses Bridge makes you feel like you are walking through the water. And from the Pompejus observation tower, an artwork in itself, you have an unforgettable view over the sprawling landscape.
Dining at Het Eetbare Landgoed
After a day in the fresh air, it is great to take a break in the Orangerie of nearby Landgoed Mattemburgh. In the former greenhouse of this country estate, Marloes and Frank van Akkeren work their magic to bring the region’s finest flavours to your table, using exceptional ingredients, such as forgotten fruit, vegetables and exotic produce straight from Het Eetbare Landgoed (The Edible Estate).
Day 3. Bergen op Zoom
Today, you have some time to explore Bergen op Zoom, a city with no fewer than 800 listed monuments. The centre invites you to stroll leisurely through the narrow streets and charming squares. One of the city’s eye-catchers is the Markiezenhof, the oldest city palace in the Netherlands. Explore a variety of exhibitions in the richly decorated halls and period rooms. You can stop by the Museumcafé for a cup of coffee with a tasty treat before continuing your trip.
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Het Markiezenhof
Het Markiezenhof
Out on the water with the last weir fishermen
Another exceptional story awaits at the Brabantse Wal: that of the weir fishermen and the famous Bergen anchovies, one of North Brabant’s culinary icons. Weir fishing is a 350-year-old fishing method that is at risk of disappearing. Currently, there is only one family that still practises it for a living. To keep this old craft alive, you can go out on the River Schelde with the last weir fishermen in the months of May, June and July. You board at the Bergse Diepsluis for a sailing trip and see with your own eyes how the fishermen catch anchovies in the traditional way.
This trip is a unique experience that shows you how regional produce, craftsmanship and respect for the countryside come together. As you have discovered throughout this journey, pure gastronomic enjoyment in Brabant is all about the quality of the produce, the passion of the maker and savouring flavours with care.
